The Final Destination: Magic Wood, Switzerland

We left for Switzerland in the afternoon. Four and a half hours in the car on smooth road through lovely countryside and breathtaking sights, shrunk time and soon  enough we were there. It's Magical I thought to myself, its easy to see how it got its name. A huge valley shelters the campsite and a majestic river flows just beneath. The perfect conditions were present. Warm, sunny with not a cloud in the sky. A 360 degree view of green alpine surrounding the valley and behind us, a striking view of razor sharp glacial peaks. Couldn't have wished to be be anywhere else. Dark skies approached slowly which gave us plenty of time to get tents set up and have a look around. My plan was to save myself for the next day but my impatience got the better of me, on the look about the boys wanted to climb. It was too hard to resist and before I knew it my rock shoes were on. A few easy warm ups though and I was done, too tired to continue so I scouted the area for eye catching possible projects. When we returned to camp we all slouched on the crash pads and gazed up at the stars in total peace as we waited for dinner to be served. Plain pasta mixed with green and red pesto, so tasty at the time. The sayings true hunger is the best sauce. 

The next morning I awoke about ten o'clock, opened up the door of the tent and was taken back by what I was looking at. Right in line with the flap of my tent was a beautiful view of nature at its best. I walked over to Christian at his car and ate some breaky while my eyes slowly adjusted to the light of day and were pasted upon the sights. A while later along came the rest of the group, as soon as they had eaten the day was about to begin. Over the river we walked on a sturdy wooden bridge and  awaiting us at the far side was boulder land. We hiked to where we were the previous evening and warmed up. A while later Ciaran jumped on his 6c+ and owned it. Marco recommended some nice problems for me to do which were close by. One of which was called Supercrack 6c and the other Enterprise 7a. Supercrack starts off as a horizontal overhang with two parallel cracks comprised of positive slopey jugs and then straightens into a slightly overhanging finish using another crack, it then leads to a jug and then off that, a dyno to the finishing hold. Such a good problem. Without a doubt, my favourite climb of the trip. Enterprise is a Magic Wood classic, its a lip traverse on slopey holds with toe and heel hooks. Its starts off on two finger jugs and a heel hook then traverses around a corner to more slopers, once your on those slopers its a dead point to a hand wide ledge, cross through to another jug like ledge and up to the finishing jug. Both are really great problems. Daragh was working hard on the 6c+ also but hadn't tasted victory, not today anyway. Later we decided to have a go on the mighty Supercrack, Christian led the way and got past the really steep part but didn't go back to do the rest as he had done it before. Once the beta was inbeded deep inside my skull it was time to give it my first go. I got to the end of the dual cracks but then fell off due to confusion of what moves to pull off next. Its funny how you think you have all the moves sussed out but then when you try to perform them it doesn't work out at times. I thought I knew what to do but obviously not. After Ciar had a few goes I discovered a toe hook and another foot placement for my right, that was it now all I have to do is tie them together. Some Romanians were working a project of theirs just beside us, they were intrigued by Supercrack. A pure hotty of a woman came over to attempt it and did it second go. I saw how the next moves were to be done and thought now that I have the lower moves completed I can use the woman's beta to help me get to the top. The end is near I thought. Off I went on my next go, got further than the last but was baffled when I thought your ones sequence was the key. Third go maybe. I found my key to this particular move, a few foot arrangements and the puzzle was one. I was now ready to link it all together and dyno to that heavenly jugulous jug. I'll leave it for tomorrow though as my energy was sapped. Ciaran hopped on again and before I knew it he had that hold, that last hold in his hands. He really enjoyed this problem also. Marco had a rock of his own too named King Kong 7a+. I didn't try it but it looks great, loads of heel hooks and slapping to good slopers. He did his best that day but accomplishment on that problem was far to be seen for him on this trip however I'm fully confident he will have it done within a few weeks after we leave for home as these guys come to Magic Wood often and train hard to reach goals. Just up the hill from King Kong was Enterprise. I decided that I wanted a taste of it and so did Ciaran so up we went. Marco talked us through his sequence but what worked for himself and Christian, wouldn't work for Ciaran and I at all. We spent most of out time wondering how it goes but after some frustration and pain I discovered something, a valuable toe hook to prevent us swinging off as we made our way around the corner. I was delighted, it would now go so it would. We didn't get it but close we were, next days a rest and after that I'm going back to do it. What a great 7a this would be I thought to myself as we all walked back to camp. Tortellini pasta for dinner, it was like the Hagen Daz of pasta, it was special. On its own its actually amazing, the pork and spinach filling is rewarding when you sink your fangs into it. Three weeks after the trip I'm still eating it like we did that night. 

As the morning sun shone through the layers of the tent I knew it would be another great day in this land. Morning routine continued as usual, talk with Christian, eat breakfast and watch the climbers walk from tent to tent in their muscular skins while we waited on the remainder of the crew. Its the best feeling ever being able to boulder whenever you want on holidays like this one. I was on a rest day but was still as excited as the others to watch them trying their very best on their projects.

Christian wanted to have a go at Supernova 7c. A wicked prow on a 40 degree overhang, nothing but 100 percent slopage, the moves from the start to the mid section are all on one big sloper with a moiste dark look about it. It was long too, about sixteen foot. I felt it once or twice and thought it would be almost impossible to scale this thing but Christian along with another female climber who was present working on it also proved otherwise. Shes a monster and climbs 8a boulder. As we sat on some comfortable weathered rock to overlook the fight for the mighty 7c, Christian seemed to be getting closer and closer to the final moves. Its a really nice problem and I would love to return some day to make it mine. The woman made it so far, in fact she held the last hold and while she maneuvered herself for the match something didn't look right, she seemed awkwardly unbalanced and in the wrong position and as a result fell to the mats in a mixture of emotion, relieved that she almost had it and slightly disappointed. Christian was very close as well, he was just in reach of the last hold when he dismounted. His face lit up with enlightenment and was positive in knowing he would get this. A while after the girl had it, I went off to reflect at the river-side and returned to hear roaring and see her two hands clenching the finishing hold. We didn't even know her but to watch somebody working hard on something from the start and see them succeed brings a joyful presence. Christian continued to attempt progress but he seemed too knackered to us and soon enough he discovered this himself as he unleashed his infuriating temper. He began by screaming and slapping the rock with an entertaining ending of tripping on the corner of the crash pad and yelling ''Fuck!!'' in a humorous voice hahaha, very funny. He then cooled down and called it, it was time to head back to our temporary home. The river here is really amazing, Crystal clear and ice ice cold. Earlier that day Daragh, J and I went for a swim and experienced our manhood vanish into what looked liked some extra skin. Proper refreshing. 

The next day brought me  a high feeling of determination and excitement. I felt thoroughly psychologically free. I thought to myself, this is victory day. We all began the usual warm up and sound enough I got the honor of doing Supercrack. I looked at it from start to finish, took a deep breath and slid down into the cool aired hole. I felt great after the days rest as every move felt pretty much effortless. I got to the jug from where the dyno begins, chalked up and leaped for glory. Once I had that last jug there was no letting go, a vice like grasp I had. I was so relieved, no more obsessing over it only good memories to be thought of. I said there and then that it was going to be the climb of the trip and still it remains. In fact the climb of my climbing life so far.

Me on the legendary Supercrack

Next on the project list was Enterprise, I was equally psyched on this particular one as well. Felt the holds again, imagined myself on it and off I went telling Marco not to roll the camera as I was only trying out the first few moves, but I kept on going not realizing what was happening. Totally in the zone, all that could be heard of were the vibrations of my hands slapping and before I knew it it was complete. In shock of the decent I didn't know how to respond to everybody congratulating me. My two most important aims for Magic Wood and they were done. A happy young lad I was. 

The following day was day four and would be the final eight hours in Magic Wood. We spent our time on Schrotti, a really nice 7a that Ciaran wanted so badly. He worked it for the second time after I was finished on Enterprise the previous day and kept making it very close to latching the good holds leading up to the end. Watching him fight so hard was inspiring and as a result I found myself giving it a go. With Supercrack and Enterprise put away that day I couldn't locate enough energy to give it my all and didn't last long on it. On day four as Ciaran warmed up, he jumped on and made it the whole way through. What a problem and what a battle. He was entirely chuffed with himself.

That was the last we saw of climbing in Switzerland. What awaited us now was a four hour trek back to Germany, only two hours to a five star McDonald's though which was a beast feast. With morals sky high and stomachs full with fast food goodness the holiday didn't feel quite over as we had the positive thought of German sandstone again along with its unique drinking culture. After this though it's back on the plane to return home.

Part 2: Fontainbleau

We left Germany for France the following day arriving five and a half hours later by car to the F1 hotel, a cheap hotel just a ten minute drive from the boulders, exactly what we needed for this chapter of the trip. After unloading our stuff we searched for food, the first place we found turned out to be the location for dinner. A Mongolian WOK restaurant it was, all you can eat for 16.50 and the grub was amazing. It was perfect. I'm really keen to try new foods whenever I can so this was great as the food selection of choice was diverse. I tried muscles which I would describe as being rubbery with barely any taste, I don't think it was fresh though which probably explains it. I tried prawns for the first time as well, there actually nice funny enough as I was fairly scared of them before but down the hatch they went. Belly's full and tiredness seeping in, it was time for the bed. Pain in the arse though, trying to sleep with two hyperactive kids singing an irritating song don't work haha. Next day was time for some bouldering. We started the font session at Cul De Chien where we scurried up our first Font boulder, Snoopy, following some more warm ups. After it was time to get a feel for fonts strict grades as we spent some time trying a tough 6a and failed. I thought I knew what to expect when I was told about the term ''polished'' but I totally under estimated it. A lot of the foot holds were like trying to make your foot stick to glass. That's exactly how Ciaran explained it. Didn't think it would be that bad though. But over time I adapted to the new style of climbing and put some problems away. Through out the day myself Ciaran and Daragh stuck to the red circuit which involved some really cool problems, grades being of 6a's, b's and c's. They were great but they felt so much harder haha couldn't believe how difficult they were. Unfortunately Jamos leg was in bits so he rested for the day. Christian did well on a 6b which involved a lot of compression and double heel hooks. Ciaran and I attempted but no success was to be given, that Christian fella is a monster. Later that day we headed back to the hotel, sat outside on the benches and discussed dinner. Pizza won. Unfortunately Daragh was unable to enjoy his meal because of some creepy chillin' eyeing up his food.

Christian on Font 6b

When morning arrived the area of choice for the day was Franchard Cuisiniere. A nice area shaded from the trees with more friction on the rocks than the last. We walked for about ten minutes until we came to our destination where Fred Nicole's Karma is situated. After climbing in Germany my skin was shredded, I was missing many the layers so instead of sitting out and not climbing I taped my finger tips to the nail and proceeded to have fun and give it my best. Although it didn't give the best grip on the rock it was better that nothing. We all had a blast in this area as we found a really nice 6c+,La Proue de la Passion Assis, another nice line beside that, and a whopper slopery 7a ten feet from La Proue.  We all bonded and had some memorable times. I made the 6c+ my project for the day and sent it before the day was done, thank fuck, Ciaran did the ungraded problem beside this and Jamo was so close to getting the 7a, all that lied between him and getting up that giant sloper boulder was a sly heel slip. We were all satisfied at what we accomplished even though some of us didn't complete projects. After a day like that it was defiantly pizza again for din dins.

Sweet, La Proue de la Passion 6c+

Day three was set in Isatis, another forest covered area with good friction and some great problems comprised of slabs, vertical and steep boulders. Myself and Daragh started with some easy vertical problems which were really fun with slopery top outs and then progressed onto some harder grades. As I walked around the corner to see what Ciaran, Jamo and the Germans where at I witnessed them trying a sweet 7a whose top out was a beast 6c. The 7a was a stand start off two good slopers to a pocket, and then to a lovely jug where the 6c began. From there to the top out was hard enough with a big dead point move to a slopey rail hidden right over the lip just within reach. Ciar did the top out and then pushed on to do the stand start with Cristian. Soon after Ciar started Christian got it, leaving me to have a go at the top out and Ciar to do the stand. With my finger tips still short on skin, they remained taped. I tried the top out time after time but it involved a slopey rail and I just felt that the fingers were holding me back, next time I'm there ill go back to it. Ciaran beasted the stand start, fair play man. Daragh had a few goes on the top out with me but then a nice slab inter feared with his attention as 5 British lads were cheering on one of there mates as he was pushing onto the final move. Daragh went over and beasted it within a few goes. It caught my eye too so I went over and gave it the beans. Jamo was saving himself for the famous Rainbow Rocket which we went to have a look at earlier in the day. Probably the most beautiful boulder I have ever seen. The Germans were attempting a 7a+ close by to where we were but there was no success for either of them as the sun was beating off the polished arete so it was pretty much impossible. It was now time for the rocket. A nice five minute walk in the sun and we were there. I was expecting it to be in a massive area like the two we were at before but it was in a small cluster of rock in the middle of nowhere. As if it was hidden from the World. As we walked over the last hill there it was, the sun was set on the last hold and the rest just looking beautiful. Jamo had been saving himself all day for this and has been dying to do it ever since he saw it on videos. His time had come. I was pretty psyched to give it a shot as well for the reason being that I really like dynos. Jamo and I put our shoes on, chalked up, Marco got the camera rolling and off we went. Jamo being the dyno master was nailing the second generation and was only about five inches away from the jug. But me, iv never tried a second generation before so this was going to be my first. I didn't get anywhere close to where Jamo was slapping but I did manage to do the second generation part. This made me happy. I got tired and stopped but J still remained, an hour later he too had nothing left in the tank so we finished up and left. Were going to come back to it soon enough and J's going to disintegrate the jug when he grasps it. Another great first impression for a newly experianced bouldering landmark. Time to head back to Germany for a days rest and set off for Magic Wood the day after:).

The Amazing Rainbow Rocket 7c+



The Holiday Begins: Germany

Where do I start.. In April 2012 the lads ( Jamo, Daragh, Ciaran and Eoin) booked a bouldering holiday to Albarracín, Spain. The first time I heard about it I was Ecstatic, I was only six months climbing and couldn't wait to experience a climbing holiday for the first time. Unfortunately though I was unable to go due to the expenses needed for the holiday. On the lads trip they came across two Germans, Marco and Christian. They have been climbing and bouldering for about seven years and are seriously strong, beasts. Both climb hard grades of 7b, 7b+ and 7c. Cyborgs. They all became good friends on the holiday and shared each others company and as a result Marco and Christian invited the lucky Irish over to stay with them for two weeks in there home area, Phalz. A beautiful area to the west of Germany not far from the French border, containing many Forrest's and greenery throughout the countryside. When the boys got home they told me the news about the possibility of travelling to Germany, I was over the moon. What put a bigger smile on my face was that the Germans insisted on putting us up for nothing, and to top it off they would drive us to one of the top bouldering areas around, Magic wood, and some really good areas close to where they live.

There was no way I was going to miss out on this trip so in order to be able to take part I would have to start earning some wage. Working in a nearby hotel gave me the money I needed and soon enough I had the holiday paid for. Once those flights were purchased that was it for me, going on the trip was now guaranteed. The weeks leading up couldn't have gone any smoother, work was plentiful, money wasn't an issue, and the equipment being a tent and a sleeping bag were now mine. All that was left to think about was the exciting thought of what lies ahead.

Me on a 6b in Jurrasic Park

Finally the day arrived, we left Dublin for Frankfurt airport arriving in Germany at half eleven at night. We were then greeted positively by Christian and Marco as we walked through the arrival gates and embraced them with masculine energy pumping through our body's. It was there and then decided that Daragh and I would stay in Christians house for the days spent in Germany while Ciaran and Jamo would stay with Marco in his Five Star Hotel. The next morning I awoke to the nice warm temperate air gently flowing through the window. I stuck my head out to see Germany for the first time in broad daylight. Everything seemed very still and relaxed with only the sound of cars to disturb the silence. Once Daroge opened his eyes and gained consciousness we ventured into the kitchen across from our room and were surprised by the layout of the house, it was very brightly coloured with weird objects hanging from the ceiling and on the walls, the souvenir kind, a variety of spices also hung from the ceiling in the kitchen. A traditional European trend. On the work top were some freshly baked pretzels with salt sprinkled over, we also had some tasty cheese, marmalade ham to enhance the flavour. Serious stuff. Once we finished eating it was time to head over to the boys at Marcos so that we could all drive together and have a look at one of the Germans small bouldering areas, Jurassic Park. It has cool rock, red sandstone and said to be like Albarracin which was deadly and all was steep. First impression of the place was amazing. We warmed up on some 6a's and did some 6b's which led up to a class prow, Arcteryx 6c. It started off on two good ledges to a finger crack on the left and a good stretched out sloped arete to the right. Then using some heel hooks it bumped up the sloped arete, then from there to another crack with the left and the finish was a big dead-point to a positive flat hold. Earlier on in the day we were shown a beast 7b called T-Rex. Beautiful problem. We later returned and worked it for the whole day and saw ourselves putting together the puzzle and getting further and further into the sequence. As time passed by and fatigue started to set in it was then decided to call the day a day. On the walk back to the car faces were kept smiling as we all knew T-Rex was getting sent, and it was only the first day. A great first impression for Germany. On the last day of the whole trip after the return from Magic Wood, back to T-Rex it was, Jamo got it :) and Ciaran almost. One day he shall conquer. 

The following day we were taken to a much larger area called Kalmit, some great problems there also. My goal for the trip was simply to have a great time, meet new people and appreciate the different features of the countries we visited, but in terms of bouldering I wanted to climb as much as possible while I had the opportunity and I really wanted to get my first 7a. After doing some cool warm ups I was recommended some 7a's from around where we were that day. One of which was a long horizontal high-ball, the name was German so I can't remember what it was called, all I know is it was a beauty, really got psyched on it. When it came to giving it a go and had the sequence in my head I gave the start a lash which was real stretched out and then tried the last move which was a high and risky fall. The last move was a right heel hook with both hands on a massive jug and a big dead point to a side pull. On trying the move I got into position, pulled myself up while biting on the heel, felt the side pull but didn't manage to hold it, I dropped back down to the jug to give it a second attempt but barely tickled it and cut loose falling onto the mats safely but quite easily could have been a bad landing. After 15 minutes I thought about going back to it but the dangerous fall put me off. I didn't go back to it but I'd like to one day. A while later I was shown a sweet 6a roof that took me by surprise for its grade but never the less it was a sweet rock. I spent about an hour doing it and at the end I was happy as if it had been a 7a. Beast. That night we were all in Marcos drinking the weissbier (German beer), when Florion, the Germans friend who was also in Albarracín at the time of the boys trip, came over to see us in his homeland. We being Daragh, Jamie and I started conversing with him and soon after the conversation started he let the cat out of the bag by asking us what time we were leaving for Font tomorrow? wdf? we were confused for a split second and then looked at each other and thought no..we approached the older fellas immediately and discussed what we just heard, they laughed and straight away we knew we were now going to Fontainbleau as a bonus. We were proper chuffed! Ciaran had planned this out with Marco and Christian since before we had come over. What a surprise!