Tuesday 7 August 2012

Part 2: Fontainbleau



We left Germany for France the following day arriving five and a half hours later by car to the F1 hotel, a cheap hotel just a ten minute drive from the boulders, exactly what we needed for this chapter of the trip. After unloading our stuff we searched for food, the first place we found turned out to be the location for dinner. A Mongolian WOK restaurant it was, all you can eat for 16.50 and the grub was amazing. It was perfect. I'm really keen to try new foods whenever I can so this was great as the food selection of choice was diverse. I tried muscles which I would describe as being rubbery with barely any taste, I don't think it was fresh though which probably explains it. I tried prawns for the first time as well, there actually nice funny enough as I was fairly scared of them before but down the hatch they went. Belly's full and tiredness seeping in, it was time for the bed. Pain in the arse though, trying to sleep with two hyperactive kids singing an irritating song don't work haha. Next day was time for some bouldering. We started the font session at Cul De Chien where we scurried up our first Font boulder, Snoopy, following some more warm ups. After it was time to get a feel for fonts strict grades as we spent some time trying a tough 6a and failed. I thought I knew what to expect when I was told about the term ''polished'' but I totally under estimated it. A lot of the foot holds were like trying to make your foot stick to glass. That's exactly how Ciaran explained it. Didn't think it would be that bad though. But over time I adapted to the new style of climbing and put some problems away. Through out the day myself Ciaran and Daragh stuck to the red circuit which involved some really cool problems, grades being of 6a's, b's and c's. They were great but they felt so much harder haha couldn't believe how difficult they were. Unfortunately Jamos leg was in bits so he rested for the day. Christian did well on a 6b which involved a lot of compression and double heel hooks. Ciaran and I attempted but no success was to be given, that Christian fella is a monster. Later that day we headed back to the hotel, sat outside on the benches and discussed dinner. Pizza won. Unfortunately Daragh was unable to enjoy his meal because of some creepy chillin' eyeing up his food.




Christian on Font 6b

When morning arrived the area of choice for the day was Franchard Cuisiniere. A nice area shaded from the trees with more friction on the rocks than the last. We walked for about ten minutes until we came to our destination where Fred Nicole's Karma is situated. After climbing in Germany my skin was shredded, I was missing many the layers so instead of sitting out and not climbing I taped my finger tips to the nail and proceeded to have fun and give it my best. Although it didn't give the best grip on the rock it was better that nothing. We all had a blast in this area as we found a really nice 6c+,La Proue de la Passion Assis, another nice line beside that, and a whopper slopery 7a ten feet from La Proue.  We all bonded and had some memorable times. I made the 6c+ my project for the day and sent it before the day was done, thank fuck, Ciaran did the ungraded problem beside this and Jamo was so close to getting the 7a, all that lied between him and getting up that giant sloper boulder was a sly heel slip. We were all satisfied at what we accomplished even though some of us didn't complete projects. After a day like that it was defiantly pizza again for din dins.


Sweet, La Proue de la Passion 6c+


Day three was set in Isatis, another forest covered area with good friction and some great problems comprised of slabs, vertical and steep boulders. Myself and Daragh started with some easy vertical problems which were really fun with slopery top outs and then progressed onto some harder grades. As I walked around the corner to see what Ciaran, Jamo and the Germans where at I witnessed them trying a sweet 7a whose top out was a beast 6c. The 7a was a stand start off two good slopers to a pocket, and then to a lovely jug where the 6c began. From there to the top out was hard enough with a big dead point move to a slopey rail hidden right over the lip just within reach. Ciar did the top out and then pushed on to do the stand start with Cristian. Soon after Ciar started Christian got it, leaving me to have a go at the top out and Ciar to do the stand. With my finger tips still short on skin, they remained taped. I tried the top out time after time but it involved a slopey rail and I just felt that the fingers were holding me back, next time I'm there ill go back to it. Ciaran beasted the stand start, fair play man. Daragh had a few goes on the top out with me but then a nice slab inter feared with his attention as 5 British lads were cheering on one of there mates as he was pushing onto the final move. Daragh went over and beasted it within a few goes. It caught my eye too so I went over and gave it the beans. Jamo was saving himself for the famous Rainbow Rocket which we went to have a look at earlier in the day. Probably the most beautiful boulder I have ever seen. The Germans were attempting a 7a+ close by to where we were but there was no success for either of them as the sun was beating off the polished arete so it was pretty much impossible. It was now time for the rocket. A nice five minute walk in the sun and we were there. I was expecting it to be in a massive area like the two we were at before but it was in a small cluster of rock in the middle of nowhere. As if it was hidden from the World. As we walked over the last hill there it was, the sun was set on the last hold and the rest just looking beautiful. Jamo had been saving himself all day for this and has been dying to do it ever since he saw it on videos. His time had come. I was pretty psyched to give it a shot as well for the reason being that I really like dynos. Jamo and I put our shoes on, chalked up, Marco got the camera rolling and off we went. Jamo being the dyno master was nailing the second generation and was only about five inches away from the jug. But me, iv never tried a second generation before so this was going to be my first. I didn't get anywhere close to where Jamo was slapping but I did manage to do the second generation part. This made me happy. I got tired and stopped but J still remained, an hour later he too had nothing left in the tank so we finished up and left. Were going to come back to it soon enough and J's going to disintegrate the jug when he grasps it. Another great first impression for a newly experianced bouldering landmark. Time to head back to Germany for a days rest and set off for Magic Wood the day after:).




The Amazing Rainbow Rocket 7c+



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