We left for Switzerland in the afternoon. Four and a half hours in the car on smooth road through lovely countryside and breathtaking sights, shrunk time and soon enough we were there. It's Magical I thought to myself, its easy to see how it got its name. A huge valley shelters the campsite and a majestic river flows just beneath. The perfect conditions were present. Warm, sunny with not a cloud in the sky. A 360 degree view of green alpine surrounding the valley and behind us, a striking view of razor sharp glacial peaks. Couldn't have wished to be be anywhere else. Dark skies approached slowly which gave us plenty of time to get tents set up and have a look around. My plan was to save myself for the next day but my impatience got the better of me, on the look about the boys wanted to climb. It was too hard to resist and before I knew it my rock shoes were on. A few easy warm ups though and I was done, too tired to continue so I scouted the area for eye catching possible projects. When we returned to camp we all slouched on the crash pads and gazed up at the stars in total peace as we waited for dinner to be served. Plain pasta mixed with green and red pesto, so tasty at the time. The sayings true hunger is the best sauce.
The next morning I awoke about ten o'clock, opened up the door of the tent and was taken back by what I was looking at. Right in line with the flap of my tent was a beautiful view of nature at its best. I walked over to Christian at his car and ate some breaky while my eyes slowly adjusted to the light of day and were pasted upon the sights. A while later along came the rest of the group, as soon as they had eaten the day was about to begin. Over the river we walked on a sturdy wooden bridge and awaiting us at the far side was boulder land. We hiked to where we were the previous evening and warmed up. A while later Ciaran jumped on his 6c+ and owned it. Marco recommended some nice problems for me to do which were close by. One of which was called Supercrack 6c and the other Enterprise 7a. Supercrack starts off as a horizontal overhang with two parallel cracks comprised of positive slopey jugs and then straightens into a slightly overhanging finish using another crack, it then leads to a jug and then off that, a dyno to the finishing hold. Such a good problem. Without a doubt, my favourite climb of the trip. Enterprise is a Magic Wood classic, its a lip traverse on slopey holds with toe and heel hooks. Its starts off on two finger jugs and a heel hook then traverses around a corner to more slopers, once your on those slopers its a dead point to a hand wide ledge, cross through to another jug like ledge and up to the finishing jug. Both are really great problems. Daragh was working hard on the 6c+ also but hadn't tasted victory, not today anyway. Later we decided to have a go on the mighty Supercrack, Christian led the way and got past the really steep part but didn't go back to do the rest as he had done it before. Once the beta was inbeded deep inside my skull it was time to give it my first go. I got to the end of the dual cracks but then fell off due to confusion of what moves to pull off next. Its funny how you think you have all the moves sussed out but then when you try to perform them it doesn't work out at times. I thought I knew what to do but obviously not. After Ciar had a few goes I discovered a toe hook and another foot placement for my right, that was it now all I have to do is tie them together. Some Romanians were working a project of theirs just beside us, they were intrigued by Supercrack. A pure hotty of a woman came over to attempt it and did it second go. I saw how the next moves were to be done and thought now that I have the lower moves completed I can use the woman's beta to help me get to the top. The end is near I thought. Off I went on my next go, got further than the last but was baffled when I thought your ones sequence was the key. Third go maybe. I found my key to this particular move, a few foot arrangements and the puzzle was one. I was now ready to link it all together and dyno to that heavenly jugulous jug. I'll leave it for tomorrow though as my energy was sapped. Ciaran hopped on again and before I knew it he had that hold, that last hold in his hands. He really enjoyed this problem also. Marco had a rock of his own too named King Kong 7a+. I didn't try it but it looks great, loads of heel hooks and slapping to good slopers. He did his best that day but accomplishment on that problem was far to be seen for him on this trip however I'm fully confident he will have it done within a few weeks after we leave for home as these guys come to Magic Wood often and train hard to reach goals. Just up the hill from King Kong was Enterprise. I decided that I wanted a taste of it and so did Ciaran so up we went. Marco talked us through his sequence but what worked for himself and Christian, wouldn't work for Ciaran and I at all. We spent most of out time wondering how it goes but after some frustration and pain I discovered something, a valuable toe hook to prevent us swinging off as we made our way around the corner. I was delighted, it would now go so it would. We didn't get it but close we were, next days a rest and after that I'm going back to do it. What a great 7a this would be I thought to myself as we all walked back to camp. Tortellini pasta for dinner, it was like the Hagen Daz of pasta, it was special. On its own its actually amazing, the pork and spinach filling is rewarding when you sink your fangs into it. Three weeks after the trip I'm still eating it like we did that night.
As the morning sun shone through the layers of the tent I knew it would be another great day in this land. Morning routine continued as usual, talk with Christian, eat breakfast and watch the climbers walk from tent to tent in their muscular skins while we waited on the remainder of the crew. Its the best feeling ever being able to boulder whenever you want on holidays like this one. I was on a rest day but was still as excited as the others to watch them trying their very best on their projects.
Christian wanted to have a go at Supernova 7c. A wicked prow on a 40 degree overhang, nothing but 100 percent slopage, the moves from the start to the mid section are all on one big sloper with a moiste dark look about it. It was long too, about sixteen foot. I felt it once or twice and thought it would be almost impossible to scale this thing but Christian along with another female climber who was present working on it also proved otherwise. Shes a monster and climbs 8a boulder. As we sat on some comfortable weathered rock to overlook the fight for the mighty 7c, Christian seemed to be getting closer and closer to the final moves. Its a really nice problem and I would love to return some day to make it mine. The woman made it so far, in fact she held the last hold and while she maneuvered herself for the match something didn't look right, she seemed awkwardly unbalanced and in the wrong position and as a result fell to the mats in a mixture of emotion, relieved that she almost had it and slightly disappointed. Christian was very close as well, he was just in reach of the last hold when he dismounted. His face lit up with enlightenment and was positive in knowing he would get this. A while after the girl had it, I went off to reflect at the river-side and returned to hear roaring and see her two hands clenching the finishing hold. We didn't even know her but to watch somebody working hard on something from the start and see them succeed brings a joyful presence. Christian continued to attempt progress but he seemed too knackered to us and soon enough he discovered this himself as he unleashed his infuriating temper. He began by screaming and slapping the rock with an entertaining ending of tripping on the corner of the crash pad and yelling ''Fuck!!'' in a humorous voice hahaha, very funny. He then cooled down and called it, it was time to head back to our temporary home. The river here is really amazing, Crystal clear and ice ice cold. Earlier that day Daragh, J and I went for a swim and experienced our manhood vanish into what looked liked some extra skin. Proper refreshing.
The next day brought me a high feeling of determination and excitement. I felt thoroughly psychologically free. I thought to myself, this is victory day. We all began the usual warm up and sound enough I got the honor of doing Supercrack. I looked at it from start to finish, took a deep breath and slid down into the cool aired hole. I felt great after the days rest as every move felt pretty much effortless. I got to the jug from where the dyno begins, chalked up and leaped for glory. Once I had that last jug there was no letting go, a vice like grasp I had. I was so relieved, no more obsessing over it only good memories to be thought of. I said there and then that it was going to be the climb of the trip and still it remains. In fact the climb of my climbing life so far.
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| Me on the legendary Supercrack |
Next on the project list was Enterprise, I was equally psyched on this particular one as well. Felt the holds again, imagined myself on it and off I went telling Marco not to roll the camera as I was only trying out the first few moves, but I kept on going not realizing what was happening. Totally in the zone, all that could be heard of were the vibrations of my hands slapping and before I knew it it was complete. In shock of the decent I didn't know how to respond to everybody congratulating me. My two most important aims for Magic Wood and they were done. A happy young lad I was.
The following day was day four and would be the final eight hours in Magic Wood. We spent our time on Schrotti, a really nice 7a that Ciaran wanted so badly. He worked it for the second time after I was finished on Enterprise the previous day and kept making it very close to latching the good holds leading up to the end. Watching him fight so hard was inspiring and as a result I found myself giving it a go. With Supercrack and Enterprise put away that day I couldn't locate enough energy to give it my all and didn't last long on it. On day four as Ciaran warmed up, he jumped on and made it the whole way through. What a problem and what a battle. He was entirely chuffed with himself.
That was the last we saw of climbing in Switzerland. What awaited us now was a four hour trek back to Germany, only two hours to a five star McDonald's though which was a beast feast. With morals sky high and stomachs full with fast food goodness the holiday didn't feel quite over as we had the positive thought of German sandstone again along with its unique drinking culture. After this though it's back on the plane to return home.
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